Judy & Harry’s: “A Jewish woman who thinks she’s Italian”, welcomes all to a marriage of flavor!
If you haven’t heard yet, Heirloom Restaurant at the Saint Laurent has changed hands, or shall I say, opened its arms, to a new family, that of “Judy & Harry’s”, the notable parents of this restaurant’s talented chef, David Viana. With a few tweaks here and a little spin there, the space has now transformed into Harry’s Bar and Judy’s Dining Room. The theme is a Jewish woman, Judy, “who thinks she’s Italian”, but the food created here is not confused at all. Viana, like only he and very few chefs in this area can, has delicately blended two very different cuisines, boasting all types of bold flavors among them, and melded them into a creative menu with powerful hits.
For the appetizers, I’m a little obsessed with Judy and Harry’s “Tuna Reuben”. I didn’t know how Viana and his team were going to pull this one off. Taking that staple, hearty sandwich that has found its way into so many great Jewish delis, and combining it with the delicate ahi tuna without overpowering it seemed to be a task, but Viana and his team did not disappoint. This salty, briny tuna dish is light, with a depth of Reuben zing that enhances the tuna beautifully. It’s a unique dish that fits perfectly within this dining concept.
Another standout is the matzo ball soup. It’s a delicate, deeply flavorful consume with the lightest, airiest matzo balls floating within it, made with fresh ricotta. We recently dined here with friends and I had to get a bowl for the table, five spoons, just so everybody could taste what I was talking about and everybody agreed it was absolutely delicious.
Viana goes local in his menu as well, offering a “New Jersey Fluke Crudo” that my table could not get enough of. All of the flavors in that dish worked perfectly together to celebrate the super fresh, locally caught fluke, along with local strawberries and a beautiful balsamic drizzle.
The entrées do not disappoint either. They have a bold Chicken Parm for two that’s both crispy and juicy, with a great red sauce and lots of melty cheeses. It’s what a parm should be…and then some.
The Florentine steak is out of this world, it is so tender it melts in your mouth. It’s exactly what you want when you hear the word “Florentine steak”, sliced up and ready to devour. We added the arugula and chicory salad with it, and it was the perfect pairing of acidity with an excellent quality steak. I also loved the Branzino. I thought it had such a great flavor and was perfectly cooked. They put a crust of olive tapenade on the fish and it added a lot of zing to the dish.
Everything we ordered was a hit, but on my last visit, I wasn’t a huge fan of the Latka, however I have to note that could be a personal preference, as I am an Italian woman who sometimes thinks she’s Jewish, and thus, I take a lot of pride in my thin and crispy latkes. Judy’s latkes are denser and thicker than my version, but like everything on the menu, they’re certainly well-made. That’s also the beauty of the latke. It is versatile and I do appreciate the different interpretations of this Jewish comfort food. We also learned a secret tip from one of our friends that I didn’t even know about. Ask for the “buttered pappardelle,” it’s a side dish not on the menu, but wow, was it melt-in-your-mouth thin, soft and buttery deliciousness!
There are a lot of varieties of wines on the wine list, and while I’m more of an old world girl, there are a lot of unique wines here that I’ve tried and enjoyed. I would love some more choices for older, Italian varietals, however, and perhaps a Bordeaux or two, and by the glass as well. I do also miss that Cava sparkling rose by the glass that Heirloom turned me on to years ago, but it is still on the menu by the bottle.
Judy and Harry’s does offer a nice-sized half bottle of champagne, however, which makes a wonderful aperitif to share at the start of the meal. This is reminiscent of dining in Italy, which usually starts with a beautiful crisp glass of something sparkling. I love that addition and the option of having a smaller bottle, it is a super fresh and ice cold option, which is exactly how they serve it, yet it’s not a full bottle, so as to leave room for a nice red with dinner, which is what we did.
Overall, I would highly recommend Judy and Harry’s. “Harry’s” is the bar area, filled with ambiance and beautifully crafted cocktails. Our table enjoyed Harry’s spin on the ever-popular “Espresso Martini” (you’ll have to pop in to see what I’m talking about!) I always have a “White Lady” when I visit here. I remember watching it float by on a tray once, and I just had to have one; it’s a ritual now.
As for Judy, she does not disappoint. Her flavors are bold and exciting, a marriage of two cultures that blend beautifully together when done so with the creative hands of Team Viana. You don’t have to be Jewish or Italian to feel welcome in this family vibing restaurant. The staff and management are always warm and welcoming, and the thoughtfulness in these dishes, along with the respect that they are shown, is a journey into someone’s home and everything they love about the heart of it.
I have to give Judy and Harry’s a 4.7 and for me, it was the Florentine steak coupled with the arugula chicory salad that raised the rating to one of my highest yet, as I’m still dreaming about that perfect bite the next day….
Maria O’Donnell is a food and wine writer at the Jersey Shore and you can follow her @foodwritergirl on Instagram and @CookingwithMaria on Facebook.
